Monday, May 20, 2013

Pentecost Festivities

Mass in the Duomo filled with kisses, men and boys in sharp blazers, women in high heels and looking fabulous while they rock their babies. Incense and processions.



Coming outside to the Piazza del Duomo to watch the men and women in medieval garb process to the center to celebrate the coming of the Holy Spirit. Flag-bearers trotting to the beat of the drummers, regal old men in tights, young children dressed as peasants holding flowers.
Expectantly waiting and thrilled when the box came zooming down the zipline to the altar constructed in front. Cracking fireworks and convinced that the dove/holy spirit inside the box must be dead, and worried that the flames alit above the fake apostles’ heads would spread even farther.

 

The showing of the live dove from the balcony (but convinced that they did some switcheroo to show a different or new dove.)

A picnic with Charley’s pizza and wine in sunset park and a nap of contentment in the sun and wind.

Visiting the Museo del’Opera del Duomo and seeing artwork taken from our own monastery and church. Old and beautiful things. Comparing all of the baby Jesuses. Tiny old man. Chunky stout. Sassy.
Mary’s big eyes and tiny mouth, assuming that she saw much and spoke only what mattered.

Another parade through town with long trumpets, bagpipes, dancing girls, men in tights, and flag bearers leading to the Piazza del Popolo where there would be an archery tournament. Darn distance and sun in my eyes.

Cinque Terre





Peach and yellow and green squares against a hazy pale blue and pink sunset sky.  A calmness INTERRUPTED by monstrous powerful waves.
Hearing more English than Italian, and off-put and unsettled by that.
Greeted at the train station of Riomaggiore by a large jovial boisterous Italian man exclaiming “Mamma Rosa!”---which is also the name of the hostel we booked. We were told to follow Papa Rosa, a short, tough, weathered, old man who only walked as fast as he could breathe in a drag from his cigarette.
A room like a glass box that seemed to be more fit for an airport than a hostel. 



Salmon penne pasta brought to me by the nice waiter in the red pants.
Night swimming and exploring in the rain and feeling like young pirates in the cove. Thunderous smooth rocks being sucked down into the ocean with the pulling tide. Eyes straining to find our footing. Feeling like famous people in a stadium as fireflies flickered on an off in the rocks above us.
The mysterious glowing Duomo-shape at the top of the cliff as tantalizing as Gatsby’s green light across the water.

Forced to sleep in because of rain, but leading to a beautifully clear yet cloudy day.
A morning in the marina and seeing our pirate cove in the light of day.
Conducting the crashing waves in Vernazza, and being the comedic entertainment of several tourists when one giant wave swallowed Tyler.


Picnic by the sea of pesto and tomato pizza and eating an entire apple (Sara Stolarksi style) for lunch.



A gorgeous hike to Monterosso with beyond-the-edges-of-the-postcard views, squishy little plants the color of mentos, archways of trees with yellow flowers, Deep blue sea. Greetings and smiles in every language—Cinque Terre may be a tourist site, but it’s where the happy tourists go. Creeks to put my feet in and make them delightfully numb. Thankful to have gone the way we did so that we would be going down the endless set of slippery stairs instead of up.



Celebrating our arrival to Monterosso with rose and fior di latte gelato. Being reminded that there are always the gutters of beautiful places when we had to change into our swimsuits at the less than sanitary squatty potty bathrooms at the train station.
Laying on the beach and doing a polar plunge into the water once the sun got the courage to burst through the clouds. Skeet-shooting by throwing stones into the air and playing bocce ball with rocks on the beach.
The weight of cool stones on a warm belly. Sea mist on my face and a salty taste that lingers.


A man made out of rock.

Sweet-smelling flowers almost like honeysuckle.

Gnocci pasta like fluffy temper-pedic pillows in four cheeses with red wine. A long walk at night down the twisty stairs from the peak of Corniglia to the train station.

A couple: “That’s lame. Just a bunch of rocks.” Their eyes tuned only to see a blurry mass of stones and won’t see the delicately balanced peace piles. Life is here, but I suppose life is there also.



A different kind of adventure on the way home:

A literal 1-minute stop at the famous leaning tower only to power-walk back to the train station through the dreds and sagging pants and piercings and smells and beers of the weed-fest going on in Pisa that day.


People-watching on the streets of Florence, and feeling just as watched and judged for wearing sandals and beach-wear in Ferragamo fashion town.

Dragging our tired bodies to the door of our monastery. Home.

Friday, May 10, 2013

Happenings of the Days.



Celebrating a birthday at Vin Café or Barrique with wine and aperitivo snacks a-la-casa. Sharing wild stories of burning couches and eating hostess snacks off the road. Birthday Unicorn cake putting my taste buds into a state of ecstasy.

A pizza parade for dinner, and our ever-able waiter Valentino smiling at our excitement about a festa di pizza.

A worship service in our private chapel lit by candlelight for a wonderful balance of warm faces in a cool light blue room. Be Thou My Vision, personal poems, French philosophers, and a meditative saxophone and guitar duet by Philippe and Federico.

Hands oily in Burnt Siena and Prussian blue or dirty with wet clay. Floating on a cloud of paint thinner fumes. Visions of Dante’s hell in the midst of visions of life and community, good conversation, and beautiful music in the studio.

Unpracticed muscles sore from planting tomatoes all day in Roberta’s farm and stooping to pet Nina, Roxy, or Polo.




Chapter meetings ranging from ant problems to excursion details to planning a princess party to introductions of our lives.

FULLY enjoying a 5-day gelato festival and branching out to try flavors like olive, fig, wine and cinnamon and orange, hazelnut, licorice, lavender. The winner definitely being a cherry fior di latte with graham cracker crumbles--- enjoyed more than once on the final day of the festival… nothing wrong with 4 gelati in one day.



Passing Clandestino and the man with the tiny table and chairs offering to tell fortunes. A woman pushing a baby in a carriage and two men stopping to look at it. The man in the leather jacket with the bulldog. Rachele telling me our plans to make pizza at her house. The old man with the wiener dog with a beard. The cat that always lurks in that alley. The man who sings outside his kebab cafeteria.

The unwanted sound of middle school boys whistling at the “inglese.”


Pre- and post-dinner dance parties. Nn-sta Nn-sta Nn-sta.

A 50 year anniversary of Lamborghini which included Orvieto as a stop on their journey from Milan. So many millions of dollars in one piazza.



Being granted free access to roam and draw and enjoy the caves of Orvieto underground in order to draw inspiration for our Dante paintings.



The biggest party this neighborhood has even seen spewing from our monastery. Wands, face paint, princess crowns, dancing and music, soccer, crafts, cake and cookies, pizza, the works. And our neighbor Grumpy Gramps even accepted our invitation and dressed up to come watch from the gate. Finishing up the night with a little jazz from our Italian friends and my professor on the saxophone. A reading of Paradiso and scat echoes with the spoken word.


A run in the rain around the city walls and wondering what motions to take. Do I burrow into a nook in the warm porous tufa, becoming a caryatid helping hold up this beautiful precious ancient stone? Or do I, “filled with rapture, [my] soul yearning for freedom, space, vastness” (Brothers Karamazov) fly out to the hills in the distance never to touch down; enjoying my moment with the hilltops who bask in their shining instance of being spotlighted by the sun among the attention-hogging Italian countryside. Neither for now. Happy cat waits for me at the monastery.



Assisi: City of Peace



I've seen the place of the man who started a revolution in the Church without even knowing it.
Francis, who continually misunderstood God’s calling of what he was actually asking him to do. Who appeared to be crazy when he threw off his clothing in the center of town and said that he would only refer to God as his Father from then on. Naked before God in order to become fully clothed in Christ.
Who truly loved his fratelli, of which everyone is included in that brotherhood.
Who was called to rebuild God’s church: San Damiano, the children of God, and their encounter with the gospel.
Who was not too proud or embarrassed to come face to face with bunny rabbits preach to the birds.
Who was a marvel, but for all the right reasons. Who took the path just as Christ did towards weakness instead of towards the extraordinary and exalted---who imitated Christ in everthing down to the Stigmata found on his hands and feet and side.


 "He saw everything as dramatic, distinct from its setting, not all of a piece like a picture but in action like a play. A bird went by him like an arrow; something with a story and purpose, though it was a purpose of life and not a purpose of death. St. Francis was a man who did not want to see the wood for the trees. He wanted to see each tree as a separate and almost sacred thing, being a child of God and therefore a brother or sister of man. . . It is even more true that he deliberately did not see the mob for the men. He only saw the image of God multiplied but never monotonous. He honoured all men; that is, he not only loved but respected them all. What gave him this extraordinary personal power was this; that from the Pope to the beggar, from the sultan of Syria in his pavilian to the ragged robbers crawling out of the wood, there was never a man who looked into those brown burning eyes without being certain that Francis Bernardone was really interested in him" (G. K. Chesterton).


We “found Mimo” at San Damiano in the form of a kind man in a brown tunic who gave us a blessing.

Fixing my eyes upon the rare crucifix of a divine and awake Christ ---not the normal withering and dark---that St. Francis also looked upon and heard the voice of God.



Meditating in a forest of peace and prayer (olive and cyprus) looking out onto the Cittá della Pace. The sounds of Alessandro's voice and guitar, the smells of Sister Mint and the warmth of Brother Sun.

Crawling into the caves where Francis and his two dear friends retreated into silence and solitude in order to gain better language and better commune with people. “In silence we learn how to speak.” Three friends with each different gifts and abilities--- in gazing at the stars, one in careful calculation and recording in order to mark the distances, one in estimation of constellations for basic teaching to the people, and one in reckless abandon, shoes off and staring up at the work of God’s hands.


 Giotto’s Frescoes of the Life of Saint St. Francis:
“Shhh. Silencio. Non foto.”
Compositional rooms like dollhouses, ready to be interacted with even if I can’t make the birds flutter around Saint Francis or raise the sick in their beds. My hand can’t make it move, but the instinct to reach into that life is what counts.
Polenta yellow, Orvieto sky blue, Assisi stone pink, amarena deep red, and white like the skin under my arm that is never touched by Brother Sun.



Treated to peach gelato and people sauntering in medieval costumes.



Seeing a house in the middle of the fog on the van trip and being commanded to “Remember that.”